List of climbers, alpinists and mountaineers

List of climbers, alpinists and mountaineers is a list of people notable for the activities of mountaineering, rock climbing (including bouldering) and ice climbing.

Contents:		A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z    References   External links

A

• Vitaly Abalakov (1906–1992) Russia. Lenin Peak (1934), Khan Tengri (1936).
• Yevgeniy Abalakov (1907–1948) Russia. Communism Peak (1933).
• Major H.P.S. Ahluwalia (born ?) India. Everest (1965).
• Pierre Allain (1904–2000) France. Championed bouldering at Fontainebleau.
• Christian Almer (1826–1898) Switzerland. Numerous first ascents including the Eiger.
• Ashraf Aman (born 1943) Pakistan. First Pakistani ascent K2.
• Luigi Amedeo, Duke of Abruzzi (1873–1933) Italy. First ascent Mount Saint Elias.
• Pat Ament (born 1946) USA. Rock climber and pioneer boulderer.
• Conrad Anker (born 1963) USA. Discovered Mallory's body on Everest (1999).
• Melchior Anderegg (1827–1912) Switzerland. Numerous first ascents including new routes on Mont Blanc.
• Armando Aste (born 1926) Italy. Climbed in the Dolomites and Patagonia. First Italian ascent Eiger north face.
• Peter Athans (born 1957) USA. 7 Everest ascents.
• Peter Aufschnaiter (1899–1973) Austria. Mountaineer and co-traveller of Heinrich Harrer (Seven Years in Tibet).

B

• John Bachar (1957–2009) USA. Noted for climbs in Yosemite National Park and free soloing.
• John Ball (1818–1889) Ireland. Naturalist and climber, Alps guidebooks author. First president of Alpine Club in 1857.
• Jacques Balmat (1762–1834) France. Chamonix-based guide. First ascent Mont Blanc (1786).
• George Band (1929–2011) UK. Everest Expedition (1953), first ascent Kanchenjunga (1955).
• Henry Barber (born 1953) USA. Leading US rock climber in 1970s.
• Lilliane and Maurice Barrard (1948–1986 and 1941?–1986 respectively) France. Gasherbrum II (1982), Nanga Parbat (1984) (first female ascent). Both killed on K2.
• Charles Barrington (born ?) UK. First ascent Eiger (1858).
• Richard Bass (born 1929) USA. Businessman and amateur mountaineer, first to complete Seven Summits (1985).
• Robert Hicks Bates (1911–2007) USA. First ascent Mount Lucania (1937). On US attempts on K2 (1938 and 1953).
• Mark Beaufoy (1764–1827) UK. Fourth ascent Mont Blanc (1787).
• Fred Beckey (Friedrich Wolfgang Beckey) (born 1923) Germany/USA. Many first ascents in US and Canada.
• Bentley Beetham (1886–1963) UK. On 1924 Everest expedition; pioneer of Borrowdale (Lake District) rock climbing.
• George Irving Bell (1926–2000) USA. Physicist, biologist and mountaineer. First ascent Masherbrum (1960). Rescued on K2 (1953).
• Josune Bereziartu (born 1972) Basque (Spain). Rock climber; as of 2005^[update], only female grade 9a/5.14d.
• Didier Berthod (born ?) Switzerland. Featured in First Ascent.
• Isabella Bird (1831–1904) UK. Traveller, writer and natural historian.
• Barry Blanchard (born 1959) Canada. Mountain guide; first ascents in the St. Elias range of Alaska.
• Smoke Blanchard (1915–1989) USA. Developed Buttermilk bouldering area.
• Karl Blodig (1859–1956) Austria. Mountaineer, optician and journalist; first to climb all 4,000 metres peaks in the Alps.
• Arlene Blum (born 1945) USA. First US female attempt on Everest.
• Peter Boardman (1950–1982) UK. Everest 1975, Changabang West Wall 1976, Kanchenjunga 1979. Died on Everest with Joe Tasker.
• Jean-Marc Boivin (1951–1990) France. Exponent of extreme ascents and descents.
• Walter Bonatti (1930–2011) Italy. Mountaineer and writer. Solo new routes on Aiguille du Dru and Matterhorn.
• Sir Chris Bonington (born 1934) UK. First ascent Central Pillar of Freney (1961), Annapurna II (1960), Nuptse (1961), Central Tower of Paine (1962–3). Ascent of Everest (1985).
• Thomas George Bonney (1833–1923) UK. Geologist and mountaineer. President of Alpine Club.
• Alastair Borthwick (1913–2003) Scotland. Climber and author of Always a Little Further.
• Christine Boskoff (1967–2006) USA. 6 8,000m summits, including Everest twice. Died on Genyen Peak.
• Anatoli Boukreev (1958–1997) Russia. Climbed 7 of 8,000m peaks without supplemental oxygen. Died on Annapurna 1997.
• Tom Bourdillon (1924–1956) UK. Reconnaissance of Everest (1951), Cho Oyu (1952), British Everest expeditions (1952 and 1953), South Summit of Everest (1953).
• Stipe Božić (born 1951) FPR Yugoslavia. Completed Seven Summits. Second European to climb Everest twice.
• David Breashears (born 1956) USA. Everest twice. Directed IMAX film Everest.
• Meta Brevoort (1825–1876) USA. Alpinist of Victorian period. Aunt of W. A. B. Coolidge.
• Russell Brice (born 1952) New Zealand. Record for fastest single solo ascent without oxygen of Cho Oyo and Ama Dablam.
• Jim Bridwell (born 1944) USA. Rock climber. First one-day ascent of Nose of El Capitan in 1975.
• David Brower (1912–2000) USA. Executive Director Sierra Club and Yosemite climber.
• Joe Brown (born 1930) UK. Rock climber. First ascent Aiguille de Blaitière west face, Kanchenjunga (1955), Mustagh Tower.
• Jean Buridan (c. 1300–1358) France. Climbed Mont Ventoux for the view, before Petrarch.
• Hermann Buhl (1924–1957) Austria. First ascent Nanga Parbat (1953) and Broad Peak (1957). Died on Chogolisa.
• Alexander Burgener (1845–1910) Switzerland. First ascent Matterhorn Zmuttgrat, Grands Charmoz, Aiguille du Grépon, Lenzspitze, Grand Dru.

C

• Tommy Caldwell (born 1978) USA. Rock climber. Free climbed Nose of El Capitan.
• Una Cameron (1904–1987) UK. Ascents in Alps, Caucasus and Africa.
• Louis Ramond de Carbonnières (1755–1827) France. Scientist and Pyrenean pioneer.
• Kim Carrigan (born 1958) Australia. Leading technical rock climber of 1980s.
• Cristina Castagna (1977–2009) Italy. First Italian female ascent Makalu
• Carlos Carsolio (born 1962) Mexico. 14 8,000m summits (1985–1996).
• Riccardo Cassin (1909–2009) Italy. First ascent Piz Badile north-east face (1937); Grandes Jorasses Walker Spur (1938); Mount McKinley Cassin Ridge (1961).
• Isabella Charlet-Straton (1838–1918) UK. First ascents in Alps. First winter ascent Mont Blanc (1876).
• Maxime Chaya (born 1961) Lebanon. Everest (2006), Seven Summits and Three Poles Challenge.
• Renata Chlumska (born 1973) Sweden. First Swedish female ascent Everest (1999).
• Yvon Chouinard (born 1938) USA. Pioneer of Yosemite climbing. Founder of Chouinard Equipment and Patagonia (clothing).
• John Clarke (1945–2003) Canada. Explorer and wilderness educator. Over 600 first ascents in Coast Range of British Columbia.
• Vern Clevenger (born 1955) USA. First ascent Cholatse (1982). Numerous first routes ascents in Sierra Nevada.
• Ian Clough (1939–1970) UK. First ascent Am Buachaille (1968). First UK ascent Eiger north face (1962). Died on Annapurna.
• Norman Clyde (1886–1972) USA. Pioneer of California's Sierra Nevada.^[1]
• J. Norman Collie (1859–1942) UK. First ascent Ben Nevis Tower Ridge. Nanga Parbat expedition (1895).
• Achille Compagnoni (born 1914) Italy. First ascent K2 (1954) with Lino Lacedelli.
• William Martin Conway (1856–1937) UK. Surveyor and explorer (Karakoram, Spitsbergen, Andes & Alps).
• Dr Patrick Cordier (1947–1996) France. First ascent French Direct on Norway's Troll Wall (1967). Solo ascent The Nose, Yosemite (1973). First ascents in Mont Blanc massif.
• Kenton Cool (born 1973) UK. Seven-time Everest summiter.
• W. A. B. Coolidge (1850–1926) USA. 1,700 expeditions in Alps, Alpine historian.
• Janne Corax (born 1967) Sweden. Adventurer and climber.
• Jean Couzy (born 1955) France. First ascent Makalu with Terray.
• Lucy Creamer, (born 1971). British Champion climber
• Aleister Crowley (1875–1947) UK. Occultist, writer, and rock climber. Led early expeditions on K2 and Kanchenjunga.
• Michel Croz (1830–1865) France. Numerous first ascents. Died on descent after first ascent of Matterhorn.
• Anna Czerwińska (born 1949) Poland. Oldest female ascent Everest (at the time, age 50), first Polish female Seven Summits.

D

• Steph Davis (born ?) USA. Second female one-day free climb El Capitan.
• Johnny Dawes (born 1964) UK. Rock climber, introduced two new grades in British grading system.
• José Antonio Delgado (1965–2006) Venezuela. Five 8,000m summits (1994–2006). Died on Nanga Parbat.
• Catherine Destivelle (born 1960) France. First woman to solo the Eiger North Face in winter.
• Clinton Thomas Dent (1850–1912) UK. Caucasus, Alps, first ascent Lenzspitze (1870), Aiguille du Dru (1878).
• Ardito Desio (1897–2001) Italy. Geologist and mountaineer. Leader, K2 first-ascent expedition (1954).
• Kurt Diemberger (born 1932) Austria. First ascent Broad Peak (1957) and Dhaulagiri (1960). Climbed K2 (1986 K2 disaster).
• Hans Christian Doseth (1958–1984) Norway. Climbed Great Trango Tower east face (1984). Died during descent.
• Lord Francis Douglas (1847–1865) Scotland. Died on descent after first ascent of Matterhorn.
• Hans Dülfer (1892–1915) Germany. Rock climber killed in World War I.
• Hayatullah Khan Durrani (born 1962) Pakistan. Mountaineer and rock climber.
• Günther Dyhrenfurth (1886–1975) Germany/Switzerland. Himalayan explorer. Led German expeditions to Kanchenjunga (1930, 1931).^[2]

E

• James Eccles (1838–1915) UK. First ascents in Mont Blanc massif.
• Susan Ershler (born 1956) USA. First married couple to climb the Seven Summits together (with Phil Ershler).^[3]
• Oscar Eckenstein (1859–1921) UK. Alpinist, rock climber and boulderer.
• Charles Evans (1918–1995) UK. Alps, Wales, leader of Kangchenjunga first ascent expedition.
• Jens Esmark (1763–1839) Norway. First ascent Snøhetta (1798) and Mount Gaustatoppen. Led first expedition to Bitihorn.
• Nick Estcourt (1942–1978) UK. Killed on K2 by avalanche.
• John Ewbank (born 1948) Australia. Pioneer of Australian rock climbing. Invented Australian (Ewbank) grading system.
• Leila Esfandyari (1970–2011) Iran. First Iranian woman to summit 8000m peaks Nanga Parbat and K2, died coming back from Gasherbrum II peak

F

• Freda du Faur (1882–1935) Australia. First female ascent Mount Cook.
• Ron Fawcett (born 1955) UK. One of first professional rock climbers.
• Sue Fear (1963–2006) Australia. Five 8,000ers, killed in crevasse fall on Manaslu.
• Edmund February (born ?) South Africa. Opened over 500 climbing routes throughout Africa.
• Rudolf Fehrmann (1886–1947) Germany. Pioneer rock climber in Elbsandsteingebirge.
• Darby Field (1610–1649) Ireland? First European to climb Mount Washington (New Hampshire) (1642).
• George Ingle Finch (1888–1970) Australia. Reached 8,300 m on 1922 Everest expedition; Dent d'Hérens north face.
• Scott Fischer (1955–1996) USA. Lhotse 1990, K2 1992, Everest 1994; died in 1996 Mount Everest disaster.
• Hans Florine (born 1964) USA. Speed climber. Ascent The Nose El Capitan (2008) in 2:37:05.
• James David Forbes (1809–1868) UK. First British ascent Jungfrau.
• Charlie Fowler (1954–2006) UK. Free solo rock climber and high-altitude mountaineer.
• Mick Fowler (born 1956) UK. Explorer and mountaineer. Winner of Piolet D'Or (2003).^[4]
• Douglas Freshfield (1845–1934) UK. Alps, Scotland, Himalaya, Pyrenees.
• Tom Frost (born ?) USA. Rock climber, first ascents of big walls in Yosemite Valley.

G

• Patrick Gabarrou (born 1951) France. First ascents in Mont Blanc massif.
• Will Gadd (born ?) Canada. Various hard mixed routes including the first M12.
• Lene Gammelgaard (born ?) Denmark. Author of Climbing High. First female Scandinavian ascent of Everest.
• João Garcia (born 1967) Portugal. First Portuguese to climb Everest and all 8,000m summits (1993–2010).
• Rolando Garibotti (born 1971) Argentina/USA. Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre traverse.
• Lakpa Gelu (born 1967) Nepal. 12 Everest ascents.
• Lester Germer (1896–1971) USA. Physicist, World War I fighter pilot and rock climber.
• Conrad Gessner (1516–1565) Switzerland. Naturalist and early mountaineer in the Alps.
• John Gill (born 1937) USA. Father of modern bouldering. Introduced chalk and modern dynamics in 1950s.
• Stefan Glowacz (born 1965) Germany. Professional rock climber.
• Dan Goodwin (born 1955) USA. Rock/building climber, climbed World Trade Center, Sears Tower, John Hancock Center and CN Tower.
• Dave Graham (born 1981) USA. Rock climber and boulderer.
• Tormod Granheim (born 1974) Norway. Climber and extreme skier. First ski descent Everest north face (2006).
• Chloé Graftiaux (1987–2010) Belgium. Rock and sport climber and mountaineer.
• William Spotswood Green (1847–1919) New Zealand. Selkirks.
• Paul Grohmann (1838–1908) Austria. Numerous first ascents in 19th century.
• Michael Groom (born 1959) Australia. Ascents of Lhotse, Kangchenjunga, K2 and Everest without bottled oxygen.
• Bear Grylls (born 1974) in 1998, at age 23, was the youngest Briton to summit Mount Everest
• Wolfgang Güllich (1960–1992) Germany. Rock climber and boulderer. First 5.14d - Action Directe (1991).
• Paul Güssfeldt (1840–1920) Germany. First ascent Peuterey ridge and Piz Scerscen. First European attempt on Aconcagua (1883).
• Veikka Gustafsson (born 1968) Finland. All 8,000m summits (1993–2009).

H

• Peter Habeler (born 1942) Austria. First ascent without supplementary oxygen Everest (1978) with Reinhold Messner.
• Douglas Robert Hadow (1846–1865) UK. Died on first ascent Matterhorn (1865).
• Dave Hahn (born ?) USA. 11 Everest ascents, 26 Vinson Massif ascents, 19 Denali ascents.
• Lincoln Hall (born 1956) Australia. Rescued at 8,700m on descent from Everest (2006).
• Rob Hall (1960–1996) New Zealand. Seven Summits in seven months. Died in 1996 Mount Everest disaster.
• Peter Harding (1924–2007) UK. Prominent climber of 1940s.
• Warren J. Harding (1924–2002) First ascent El Capitan.
• Alison Hargreaves (1963–1995) UK. First female unassisted Everest (1995), died on descent from K2 summit.
• John Harlin (1934–1966) USA. Direct route pioneer. Killed on Eiger north face.
• Heinrich Harrer (1912–2006) Austria. First ascent Eiger north face (1938) and Carstensz Pyramid (1962). Author of Seven Years in Tibet.
• Ginette Harrison (1958–1999) UK. 7 Summits. First female ascent Kangchenjunga (1998). Killed on Dhaulagiri.
• Dougal Haston (1940–1977) UK. First ascent Annapurna south face (1970). Killed in avalanche near Leysin.
• Elizabeth Hawkins-Whitshed (1860–1934) UK. Pioneer of mountaineering, mountain photographer, author.
• Gary Hemming (1934-1969) USA. First ascent south face Aiguille du Fou.
• Siegfried Herford (1891–1914) UK. First ascent Scafell Central Buttress (1914).
• Maurice Herzog (born 1919) France. Led Annapurna expedition (1950) (first 8,000m peak climbed).
• Tom Higgins (born 1944) USA. First and first free ascents in USA; also in France outside Chamonix.^[5]
• Lynn Hill (born 1961) USA. First free ascent The Nose on El Capitan, Yosemite (1993).
• Edmund Hillary (1919–2008) New Zealand. First ascent Everest (1953) with Tenzing Norgay.
• Alan Hinkes OBE (born 1954) UK. First Briton to climb all 8,000m summits (claim is disputed).^[6]
• Andreas Hinterstoisser (1914-1936) Germany. Attempted Eiger north face in 1936 with Toni Kurz. Both died during the retreat.
• Yuji Hirayama (born 1969) Japan. World Champion 1998, 2000.
• Marty Hoey (1951–1982) USA. Died on Everest.
• Charles F. Hoffmann (1838–1913) USA. Surveyor and mountaineer. Several first ascents in Sierra Nevada.
• Jim Holloway (born 1954) USA. Perhaps first to achieve V11+ levels.
• Alex Honnold (born 1985) USA. Free solo of Half Dome northwest face (2008) and Moonlight Buttress in Zion National Park (2008).
• Tom Hornbein (born 1930) USA. First ascent Everest west ridge (1963).
• Steve House (born 1970) USA. Solo ascent K7 (2004). First ascent Nanga Parbat Rupal face (2005).
• Charles Houston (born 1913) USA. First ascent Mount Foraker (1934), attempts on K2 in (1938), (1953).
• Alexander and Thomas Huber (born 1968 and 1966 respectively) Germany. Free ascents Yosemite, speed record El Capitan.
• Charles Hudson (1828–1865) UK. First ascent Monte Rosa (1855), Matterhorn (1865). Died on descent of Matterhorn.
• Tomaž Humar (1969–2009) Slovenia. Piolet d'Or (1996) for new route Ama Dablam. Solo Dhaulagiri south wall.
• Alexander von Humboldt (1769–1859) Germany. Chimborazo.
• John Hunt (1910–1998) UK. Leader, 1953 Everest expedition.

I

• Marcel Ichac (1906–1994) France. Filmed first French expedition in Himalaya Karakoram (1936) and the second Annapurna (1950).
• Ulrich Inderbinen (1900–2004) Switzerland. Guide. 371 Matterhorn ascents, last at 90 years old.
• Alberto Iñurrategi (born 1968) Spain. Youngest person to climb all eight-thousanders (33 years old) (4th without supplemental oxygen).
• Andrew Irvine (1902–1924) UK. Died on Everest with George Mallory (1924).
• R. L. G. Irving (1877–1969) UK. Alpine pedagogue and author.

J

• John Jackson (1921–2005) UK. First ascent of Jackson's Route.
• Narendra Dhar Jayal a.k.a. 'Nandu' Jayal (died 1958) India. First Director of Himalayan Institute of Mountaineering.

K

• Conrad Kain (1883–1934) Austria/Canada. Over 50 first ascents in the Canadian Rockies, amongst which Mount Robson.
• Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (born 1970) Austria. First woman to climb all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen.
• Harish Kapadia (born 1945) India. One of most distinguished Himalayan Mountaineers.
• Bob Kamps (1931–2005) USA. Pioneer of golden age of Yosemite climbing and 5.10 & 5.11 routes in America.
• Fritz Kasparek (1910–1954) Austria. First ascent of Eiger north face.
• Ron Kauk (born 1957) USA. Rock climber. Many first ascents in Yosemite. Stunt work for Hollywood climbing movies.
• Dora Keen (1871–1963) USA. 8 ascents of first-class peaks in the Alps. Member of Royal Geographical Society, 1914.
• Pat Kelly (died 1922) UK. Rock climber and founder of Pinnacle Club.
• E. S. Kennedy (1817–1898) UK. First ascent Monte Disgrazia, Mont Blanc du Tacul.
• Clarence King (1842–1901) USA. Geologist and climber, first director of USGS, first ascent Mount Tyndall.
• Andy Kirkpatrick (born 1971) UK. Rock and ice climber, motivational speaker.
• Colin Kirkus (1910–1942) UK. Rock climber and alpinist.
• Christian Klucker (1853–1928) Switzerland. Guide, prolific first ascentionist in Bernina Range and Bregaglia.
• M.S. Kohli (born 1931) India. Leader of the Indian Everest expedition (1965).
• Layton Kor (born 1938) USA. Rock climber and mountaineer. Author of Beyond the Vertical.
• Dai Koyamada (born 1976) Japan. Sport climber and boulderer.
• Jon Krakauer (born 1954) USA. Author and mountaineer. Summited Everest (1996). Wrote Eiger Dreams, Into The Wild and Into Thin Air.
• Hans Kraus (1905–1995) Austria. Pioneering rock climber and one of fathers of sports medicine and physical medicine and rehabilitation.
• Göran Kropp (1966–2002) Sweden. Rode bike from Sweden, soloed Everest without oxygen and rode home (1996).
• Julius Kugy (1858–1944) Austria-Slovenia. Considered the father of modern mountaineering in the Julian Alps.
• Jerzy Kukuczka (1948–1989) Poland. Second man to climb all 8,000m peaks.
• Wojciech Kurtyka (born 1947) Poland. Pioneer of alpine style in high mountains.
• Toni Kurz (1913–1936) Germany. Attempted Eiger north face in 1936. Died during the retreat.

L

• Louis Lachenal (1921–1955) France. First ascent of Annapurna 1950, with Maurice Herzog. Died skiing in Chamonix.
• Jean-Christophe Lafaille (1965–2006) France. 11 eight-thousanderswithout supplementary oxygen. Died on Makalu.
• Raymond Lambert (1914–1997) Switzerland. Reached 8611m, highest altitude at that time, with 1952 Swiss Everest expedition.
• Samantha Larson (born 1988) USA. Youngest person to complete Seven Summits, at 18 (2007).
• Philip Ling (born ?) Australia. Notorious for one of the highest rescue of two injured Sherpas on Mt. Pumori (7167m), Nepal.
• Pete Livesey (1943–1998) UK. Influential rock climber (1970s).
• John Long (born 1953) USA. Rock climber and writer. Author of How to Rock Climb series.
• Erhard Loretan (1959-2011) Switzerland. 14 8,000m plus summits (1982–1995).
• Alex Lowe (1958–1999) USA. Great Trango Tower, Rakekniven - Antarctica & Sail Peak - Baffin Island. Died on Shishapangma.
• Fritz Luchsinger (1921–1983) Switzerland. First ascent Lhotse (1956).

M

• Tim Macartney-Snape (born 1956) Australia. Everest (1984). First to climb Everest from sea level (1990).
• Dave MacLeod (born ?) UK. Established world's first E11.
• George Mallory (1886–1924) UK. 1921,1922,1924 UK expeditions to Everest. Died on Everest at 8,000+ metres.
• Marie Marvingt (1875–1963) France. First woman to climb most major peaks in French and Swiss Alps (1903–7).
• Sergio Martini (born 1949) Italia. Seventh ascent of all eight-thousanders (1983–2000).
• William Mathews (1828–1901) UK. Founder of Alpine Club. First ascent Monte Viso, Grande Casse.
• Chantal Mauduit (1964–1998) France. Six 8,000m summits without supplementary oxygen. Died on Dhaulagiri.
• Eylem Elif Maviş (born 1973) Turkey. First Turkish female ascent of Everest (2006).
• Pierre Mazeaud (born 1929) France. Walter Bonatti's climbing partner. First French ascent of Everest (1978).
• Daniel Mazur (born 1960) USA. Numerous ascents in the Himalayas and America.
• Steve McClure (born 1970) UK. First Briton to climb 9a twice.
• Duncan McDuffie (1877–1951) USA. Summits in the Sierra Nevada (U.S.).
• Richard "Dick" McGowan (1933–2007) USA. First US successful ascent of Everest, International Himalayan Expedition (1955).
• Ammon McNeely (born 1970) USA. Noteworthy first one day ascents and speed records on El Capitan, Yosemite and Zion big walls.
• Alain Mesili (born 1949) France. Fitz Roy (1970) with Ricardo Arzela. Pioneered routes in Bolivia.
• Reinhold Messner (born 1944) Italy. First to climb all eight-thousanders (1970–1986) without oxygen. First ascent without supplementary oxygen Everest (1978) with Peter Habeler. First solo Everest (1980).
• John Middendorf (born 1959) USA. Big wall rock climber. First ascent East Wall Great Trango Tower (1992).
• Jerry Moffatt (born 1963) UK. Sport climber and boulderer.
• Gwen Moffat (born 1924) UK. Author of Space Below My Feet (1961).
• Silvio Mondinelli (born 1968) Italy. 13th person to climb all eight-thousanders (6th without supplementary oxygen).
• Ben Moon (born 1966) UK. Sport climber and boulderer, established world's first F8C+.
• A. W. Moore (1841–1887) UK. First ascent Fiescherhorn, Barre des Écrins, Piz Roseg, Ober Gabelhorn
• Simon Moore (born ?) Ireland. Big-wall climber, boulderer. First Irish ascent of an E9.
• Fritz Moravec (1922–1997) Austria. First ascent Gasherbrum II (1956).
• Nea Morin (1905–1986) UK. Rock climber and mountain climber.
• Simone Moro (born 1967) Italy. Lhotse (1994), Shishapangma (1996), Everest (2000, 2002), Cho Oyu (2002).
• Patrick Morrow (born 1952) Canada. First to complete both the Bass and Messner Seven Summits lists (1986).
• Tomáš Mrázek (born 1982) Czechoslovakia. Rock climber, World Champion 2003, 2005, winner of World Cup 2004.
• John Muir (1838–1914) USA. Conservationist and mountaineer. Summits in California and Alaska.
• Norrie Muir (born 1948) Scotland. Prolific winter first ascentionist in Scotland.
• Albert F. Mummery (1855–1895) UK. Alpine and Himalayan pioneer, killed on Nanga Parbat.
• Don Munday (1890–1950) Canada. Mountaineer and explorer, husband of Phyllis Munday, explored region around Mount Waddington.
• Phyllis Munday (1894–1990) Canada. Mountaineer and explorer. Explored region around Mount Waddington.

N

• Yasuko Namba (1949–1996) Japan. Second Japanese woman to complete Seven Summits. At time, oldest woman to climb Everest at 47 (1996). Died on descent.
• Fred Nicole (born ?) Switzerland. Numerous first ascents of sport routes and boulder problems.
• Tenzing Norgay (1914–1986) Sherpa. First ascent Everest (1953) with Edmund Hillary.
• Jamling Tenzing Norgay (born 1965) Nepal. Son of Tenzing Norgay. Climbed Everest with Edmund Hillary's son, Peter Hillary (2003).
• Edward Felix Norton (1884–1954) Leader of 1924 British Mount Everest Expedition with Mallory and Irvine.
• Wilfrid Noyce (1917–1962) UK. On Everest expedition (1953), reaching South Col. Killed in Pamirs (1962).
• Arne Næss (1912–2009) Norway. Philosopher and mountaineer. Leader, expedition on first ascent Tirich Mir (1950).
• Arne Næss jr. (1937–2004) Norway. Leader, Norwegian Everest expedition (1985).

O

• Cathy O'Dowd (born 1968) South Africa. First female ascent of Everest from both north and south (1999). Fourth female ascent Lhotse (2000).
• Oh Eun-Sun (born 1966) South Korea. First Korean woman to climb Seven Summits. Controversy over eight-thousanders claim.^[7]
• Juanito Oiarzabal (born 1956) Basque (Spain). All eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen. Record 24 ascents of eight-thousanders.
• Adam Ondra (born 1993) Czech Republic. Youngest climber to climb 5.14d.
• Dan Osman (1963–1998) USA. Rock climber, soloist. Killed whilst attempting his new sport of rope jumping.
• James Outram (1864–1925) Canada. First ascent of Mount Assiniboine.

P

• Michel-Gabriel Paccard (1757–1827) France. First ascent Mont Blanc (1786).
• Bachendri Pal (born 1954) First Indian female ascent (and fifth female ascent) Everest.
• Tsewang Paljor (1968–1996) India. Died on Everest in 1996 Mount Everest disaster.
• Marie Paradis (1757–1827) France. First female ascent Mont Blanc (1809).
• Young-seok Park (born 1963) South Korea. First grand slam of mountaineering (2005).
• Elizabeth Parker (1856–1944) Canada. Journalist and mountaineer.
• Chris Webb Parsons (born 1985) England/Australia. Notable rock climber and boulderer.
• Edurne Pasaban (born 1973) Spain. First woman to climb all eight-thousanders.
• Pasang Lhamu Sherpa (1961–1993) First Nepali woman to summit Everest, died on descent (1993).
• Tom Patey (1932–1970) UK. First ascent Muztagh Tower (1956), Am Buachaille (1968). Killed in abseilling accident. Author of One Man's Mountains.
• Julius Payer (1841–1915) Czech-Austrian polar explorer who made many first ascents in the Adamello and Ortler mountains in the 1860s.
• Annie Smith Peck (1850–1935) USA. Mountaineer.
• William Penhall (1858–1882) UK. First ascent Matterhorn west face.
• Jim Perrin (born 1947) UK. Over 200 first/free ascents in Britain.
• Oliver Perry-Smith (1884–1969) USA. Rock climber in Saxon Switzerland and the Dolomites.
• Petrarch (1304–1374) Italy. Climbed Mont Ventoux (1336).
• Elfrida Pigou (1911–1960) Canadian female climber, discovered crash site of Trans-Canada Air Lines Flight 810, died on Mount Waddington.
• Burçak Özoğlu Poçan (born 1970) Turkey. First Turkish female over 8,000 m (2005).
• Klára Poláčková (born 1978) First Czech female ascent Everest.
• Dean Potter (born 1972) USA. Speed soloed El Cap in 4:17; speed soloed El Cap and Half Dome in one day.
• Paul Preuss (1886–1913) Austria. Early promoter of free climbing. Climbed 1200 peaks in his short life.
• Paul Pritchard (born 1967) UK. Rock climber.
• Hristo Prodanov (1943–1984) Bulgaria. Soloed Lhotse (1981) and Everest (1984), died on descent.
• Bonnie Prudden (born 1914). Pioneering USA rock climber and exercise advocate. 30 documented first ascents in the Gunks.
• Karl Prusik (1896–1961) Austria. Introduced widely used Prusik knot.
• Ramón Julián Puigblanque (born 1981) Spain. Rock climber.
• Ludwig Purtscheller (1849–1900) First ascent Kilimanjaro (1889).

R

• Aron Ralston (born 1975) USA. Gained fame after amputating his right arm to free himself after a canyoneering incident.
• Lisa Rands (born 1975) USA. Rock climber and boulderer.
• Michael Reardon (1974–2007) USA. Freesoloist and film producer.
• Dave Rearick (born 1934) USA. Rock climber, first ascent of Diamond on Longs Peak (1960).
• Gaston Rébuffat (1921–1985) France. 1950 Annapurna expedition, first to climb all six great north faces of the Alps, Alpine guide and author.
• Ernst Reiss (born 1920) Swiss. First ascent of Lhotse (1956).
• Dorothy Pilley Richards (1894–1986) UK. Wrote Climbing Days (1935).
• Katharine Richardson (1854–1927) UK. Mountaineer in the Alps in 1880s.
• Leni Riefenstahl (1902–2003) Germany. Filmmaker, actress and mountaineer.
• Rick Ridgeway (born 1950) USA. Author, filmmaker, photographer, member of first American team to summit K2.^[8]
• Ang Rita (born 1948) Sherpa. Climbed Everest ten times without supplemental oxygen.
• Alain Robert (born 1962) France. Climber and builderer.
• David Roberts (born ?) USA. Author, first ascents of Wickersham Wall (Mount McKinley) and other Alaskan peaks.
• Royal Robbins (born 1935) USA. Rock climber, pioneer of modern Yosemite climbing in 1950s.
• Paul Robinson (born 1987) USA. Rock climber and boulderer.
• André Roch (1906–2002), Switzerland. Everest 1952 attempt, many first ascents in Alps and Asia
• Beth Rodden (born 1980) USA. Rock climber.
• Jordan Romero (born 1996) USA. Became the youngest person to climb Everest on May 22, 2010. He was 13 years 10 months 10 days.^[9]
• Steve Roper (born ?) Guidebook writer, Editor of Ascent.
• Fred Rouhling (born 1970) France. Rock climber, notable for 1995 proposal of grade 9b (5.15b) for his unrepeated climb Akira.
• Alan Rouse (1951 –1986) UK. Soloed many of hardest routes of day. Died on descent from K2 (1986).
• Galen Rowell (1940–2002) USA. Photographer and mountaineer, first one-day ascents of Denali and Kilimanjaro, first ascent Great Trango Tower.
• Henry Russell (1834–1909) France/Ireland. Prolific first ascentionist in Pyrenees.
• Wanda Rutkiewicz (1943–1992) Poland. 8,000m-peak veteran, died attempting Kanchenjunga.

S

• Nazir Sabir (born ?) Pakistan. First Pakistani to climb Mount Everest.
• John Salathe (1900–1993) Switzerland/USA. Pioneering Yosemite National Park, inventor of modern piton.
• Horace-Bénédict de Saussure (1740–1799) France. Third ascent Mont Blanc (1787), funded first ascent.
• Marcus Schmuck (1925–2005) Austria. First ascent Broad Peak. First ascent Skil Brum.
• Peter Schoening (1927–2004) USA. First ascent Gasherbrum I and Vinson Massif. Saved 5 climbers on K2 (1953).^[10]
• Doug Scott (born 1941) UK. Seven Summits. First ascent Everest south-west face. Baintha Brakk (descent with broken ankles), Kangchenjunga, Nuptse.
• Vittorio Sella (1859–1943) Italy. Captured numerous photographs of previously unclimbed mountains.
• Chris Sharma (born 1981) USA. Award-winning rock climber. Featured in several rock climbing movies.
• John Sherman (born 1959) USA. Inventor of "V" grading system.
• Apa Sherpa (born early 1960s) Nepal. Holds the record for most ascent of Everest (20 as of 2010).
• Pasang Lhamu Sherpa (1961–1993) Nepal. First Nepali woman to climb Everest, died during descent.
• Pemba Dorjie Sherpa (born ?) Nepal. Fastest ascent of Everest (2003).
• Pemba Doma Sherpa (1970–2007) Nepal. First Nepali female mountaineer to climb Everest north face. Died on Lhotse.
• Eric Shipton (1907–1977) UK. First ascent Kamet. Pioneered route across the Khumbu Glacier.
• William Shockley (1910–1989) USA. Nobel Prize-winning physicist, proponent of eugenics. First ascent Shockleys Ceiling in the Gunks (1953).
• Joe Simpson (born 1960) UK. Survived a fall on Siula Grande. Wrote Touching the Void.
• Todd Skinner (1958–2006) USA. Rock climber. First free ascent Salathe Wall. Died on Leaning Tower.
• Cecilie Skog (born 1974) Norway. First female to climb Seven Summits and both Poles. Everest and K2.
• Laurie Skreslet (born 1949) Canada. First Canadian to summit Everest (1982).
• William Cecil Slingsby (1849–1929) UK. First ascent Store Skagastølstind (1876). Pioneer of Norwegian mountaineering.
• Frank Smythe (1900–1949) UK. First ascent Kamet (1931) with Shipton, R Holdsworth and Lewa Sherpa. Reached 8565m on Everest in 1933 without supplementary oxygen.^[11]
• William Grant Stairs (1863–1892) Canada. First non-African to ever climb in the Ruwenzoris.
• Allen Steck (born 1926) USA. mountaineer and rock climber.
• Ueli Steck (born 1976) Switzerland. Soloed Eiger north face in 2:47:33 hours (2008).
• Leslie Stephen (1832–1904) UK. Author and alpinist. First ascent Schreckhorn, Monte Disgrazia, Zinalrothorn.
• Edward Lisle Strutt (1874–1948) UK. Deputy leader on 1922 Everest expedition. Outspoken Alpine Journal editor, 1927–37.
• Gottlieb Samuel Studer (1804–1890) Switzerland. First ascent Wildhorn (1843). Founding member of Swiss Alpine Club.

T

• Junko Tabei (born 1939) Japan. 1st female ascent Everest; 1st completion of Bass and Messner's Seven Summits.
• Aleksandra Taistra (born 1982) Poland. Fourth female 8c redpoint.
• Joe Tasker (1948–1982) UK. Dunagiri, Kanchenjunga, Changabang West Wall; died on Everest (May 1982).
• Lionel Terray (1921–1965) France. First ascent Makalu (1955); second ascent Eiger north face (1949).
• Vladislav Terzyul (1953–2004) Ukraine. Disputed claim to have climbed all eight-thousanders.
• Kevin Thaw (born 1967) UK. Ascents in Himalaya and Yosemite.
• Herbert Tichy (1912–1987) Austrian. First ascent Cho Oyu (1954).
• Bill Tilman (1898–1977) UK. Explorer, climbed in Africa and Himalaya. First ascent Nanda Devi.
• Luis Trenker (1892–1990) Italy. Mountaineer, film director and writer.
• Sonnie Trotter (born 1979) Canada. Award-winning climber, known for hard trad climbing.
• Francis Fox Tuckett (1834–1913) UK. First ascent Aletschhorn (1859).
• Julie Tullis (1939–1986) UK. Broad Peak (1984) and K2 (1986); died on descent from K2.
• Mark Twight (born 1962) USA. Advocate of "light and fast" style of mountaineering.
• John Tyndall (1820–1893) UK. Early attempts on Matterhorn, first ascent Weisshorn (1861).

U

• James Ramsey Ullman (1908–1971) USA. Author and mountaineer.
• Ugur Uluocak (1962–2003) Turkey. Mountaineer, photographer and editor. Died on Mount Alarcha in Kyrgyzstan.
• Um Hong-Gil (born 1960) South Korea. 11th person to climb all eight-thousanders. First to climb 16 highest peaks.
• Willi Unsoeld (1926–1979) USA. First ascent Everest west ridge (1963). Died on Mount Rainier (1979).
• Karl Unterkircher (1970–2008) Italy. Everest and K2 in the same year without O2. Died on Nanga Parbat.
• Naomi Uemura (1941–1984) Japan. First solo winter ascent Mount McKinley, on which he died.

V

• Ivan Vallejo (born 1959) Ecuador. 14th person to climb all eight-thousanders (7th without supplemental oxygen).
• Patrick Vallencant (1946–1989) France. Alpinist/skier and ski mountaineering pioneer.
• Ed Viesturs (born 1959) USA. First US climber to climb all eight-thousander (6th without supplemental oxygen).
• Ludwig Vörg (1911–1941) Germany. First ascent Eiger north face (1938).

W

• Wang Fuzhou (born 1935) China. First ascent Everest north face, first ascent Shishapangma.
• Wang Yongfeng (born 1963) China. First Chinese couple to climb Seven Summits (with Li Zhixin).
• Horace Walker (1838–1908) UK. First ascent Mount Elbrus, Grandes Jorasses, Barre des Ecrins, Obergabelhorn.
• Lucy Walker (1836–1916) UK. First female ascent Matterhorn (1871).
• Bradford Washburn (1910–2007) USA. Third ascent Denali, pioneered west buttress route.
• Barbara Washburn (born ?) USA. First ascent Mount Bertha, first female ascent Denali (1947).
• Don Whillans (1933–1985) UK. First ascent Annapurna south face (1970).
• Rick White (1946–2004) Australia. Rock climber, developed Frog Buttress (1968).
• Jim Whittaker (born 1929) USA. First US ascent Everest (1963).
• Lou Whittaker (born 1929) USA. Rainier guide.
• Edward Whymper (1840–1911) UK. First ascent Matterhorn (1865), first ascent Chimborazo (1880).
• Jim Wickwire (born 1940) USA. K2 (1978) (bivouacked near summit).
• Krzysztof Wielicki (born 1950) Poland. First winter ascent Everest; 5th person to climb all eight-thousanders.
• Karl Wien (1906–1937) Germany. Leader of unsuccessful Nanga Parbat expedition (1937).
• Fritz Wiessner (1900–1988) USA. Born Dresden, emigrated to US; pioneer of free climbing; K2 expedition (1939).
• Walter Wilcox (1869–1949) Nationality? Canadian Rockies explorer.
• George Willig (born 1949) USA. Climbed South Tower of World Trade Center.
• Fritz Wintersteller (born 1927) Austria. First ascent Broad Peak (1957) and Skil Brum (1957).
• Ian Woodall (born 1956) UK. Climbed Everest several times.
• Fanny Bullock Workman (1859–1925) USA. Geographer, cartographer and mountaineer, notably in the Himalayas.

Y

• Santosh Yadav (born 1969) India. Indo-Tibetan Border Police woman, climbed Everest twice (1992 & 1993).
• Simon Yates (born 1963) UK. Joe Simpson's partner on west face of Siula Grande (1985), subject of Touching the Void.
• Ichiro Yoshizawa (1903–1998) Japan. Climber and writer; K2 (1977).^[12]
• Geoffrey Winthrop Young (1876–1958) UK. First ascent Täschhorn south face, Weisshorn west ridge, Grandes Jorasses traverse.

Z

• Li Zhixin (born 1962) China. Half of first Chinese couple to climb the "Seven Summits" with Wang Yongfeng.
• Matthias Zurbriggen (1856–1917) Switzerland. First ascent Aconcagua (1897).

References

External links

• Mountaineering Who's Who

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